Season after season, men’s collections become more and more experimental. If a year ago, designers suggested that men wear cropped jackets and crop tops, then in the Spring/Summer 2023 season, jackets, deep V-neck cardigans, airy mesh sweaters, vests and cross-body bags worn directly on naked are coming to the fore. body. Leather is the best base layer, say brands like Kiko Kostadinov, Rick Owens, Fendi, Ahluwalia and Dior.
Another source of inspiration for designers was nature. Dior built a garden for the show, like Christian Dior in Granville, Louis Vuitton decorated coats and suits with flowers, but Loewe went the furthest – the fashion house presented sweatshirts, sweatpants, jeans and even sneakers covered in real greenery.
Also in the Spring/Summer 2023 collections are the trends already known to us from past shows, such as T-shirts, Canadian tuxedos and kidcore. Read more about the new men’s trends of the season below.
Sailorcore
From sailor caps to Breton stripes, get ready for a nautical craze. For the first time, the style of sailors, or sailorcore, was brought to the catwalks by Jean-Paul Gaultier back in the 1980s. It was he who showed the world that caps and vests can be worn not only during a long voyage, but also in everyday life. Today, brands have decided to give this trend a new meaning. Thom Browne made the anchor the centerpiece of his collection, Kenzo integrated navy caps and guis collars into beach and business looks, and JW Anderson introduced horizontal striped T-shirts, sweaters and boat shoes.
Also in the collections: B+ Umit Benan, Erdem, Ami, Bluemarble, Tod’s, Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Boglioli, Doublet, Egonlab
Ties
The tie is an unexpected trend for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. It seems that the fashion industry has been running away from the classics for so long and diligently that in the end it ended up where it started. But, in addition to the classic options, there were a large number of non-standard models on the podium, presented in unexpected colors and combinations. For example, MSGM suggested wearing a pair of ties at once, KidSuper suggested wearing them over jackets, Paul Smith suggested putting a tie between shirt buttons, and Egonlab made it from a belt.
Also in the collections: Kenzo, Craig Green, Thom Browne, Dries Van Noten, Undercover, Ernest W. Baker, Comme des Garçons, Winnie, John Elliott, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino, Erdem, Brunello Cucinelli, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro
Sport
After all those home workouts, it’s time to get back to the gym. At least according to Marine Serre, VTMNTS, Saul Nash, Emporio Armani and Ahluwalia. Some brands have even managed to mix sportswear with a business wardrobe (in case you don’t want to carry your uniform with you to work). So, at the Dries Van Noten show, the models took to the catwalk in classic shoes and sweatpants, while at Loewe – in a strict jacket, tights and with a borset in their hands.
Also in the collections: Isabel Marant, Doublet, Lukhanyo Mdingi, A-Cold-Wall, Kenzo, Bluemarble, Walter van Beirendonck, Ami, Martine Rose, Rhude.
Patchwork
Sustainability is on all of our minds, so it’s no surprise that patchwork has become a major trend on and off the runways. From denim looks at Marine Serre and Children of the Discordance to overlay patches at Kiko Kostadinov and Yohji Yamamoto, sustainability and craftsmanship go hand in hand in this bold and original treatment. Craft is also an integral part of brands such as Bode and Auné Collections, whose light patchwork has been seen everywhere from Beyoncé to Euphoria characters.
Also in the collections: Comme des Garçons, Discordance, Labrum London, Kenzo, John Elliott, Egonlab, Antonio Marras, Dolce & Gabbana
Utility Style
The cargo fever of the late 90s and early 00s continues. And we are talking not only about trousers, but also T-shirts, tops, anoraks, jackets and coats, replete with zippers and voluminous patch pockets. From Craig Green’s love of uniforms and utility wear to the Louis Vuitton safari jacket with colorful plush pockets and camo-print Celine parkas, this practical trend is on full display on the runway.
Also in collections: Dior, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Rick Owens, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, Givenchy, Fendi, Marine Serre, Zegna, Junya Watanabe, A-Cold-Wall, Ahluwalia, Alexander McQueen, Amiri.
